Many would say that I saved the best place till last, and I think they were right. Florianopolis, or Floripa as it is known with the locals, is an island in the state of Santa Catarina and really is a magical island. As soon as I stepped off the long night bus from Sao Paulo I instantly could feel the energy of this place, I felt content.
For me Florianopolis is a very spiritual place. The nature that surrounds the island is beautiful and the 48 beaches really make it something special. It is also a very healthy place, most street corners are filled with health shops, fitness and yoga centres. Additionally, it is super popular with surfers and kite surfers, there are many surf schools that offer private classes from R80-100.
Florianopolis is a huge island, there are many different areas and beaches that you must visit. Most of the hostels are located in ‘Lagoa Conceicao’ which literally translates as ‘body of water’. The first hostel I stayed in was called ‘Geckos Hostel’, this is marketed as a party hostel but is not too loud as the bar shuts are 11pm. The staff there are super friendly and the hostel organises a fantastic BBQ night. This hostel is super sociable so it is very easy to meet people. It also has a very good kitchen and nice outside space with a pool!
I also stayed in ‘On the Road’ which is opposite Geckos, sometimes Geckos is super popular especially on the weekends. On the Road, is a good alternative to Geckos. If you feel that Geckos is too much, perhaps you want some time to yourself, then this place is great for that. On the Road has a beautiful view out to the lagoon and has a vegan breakfast included!
Lagoa Conceicao is a great base for your typical backpacker. It has many supermarkets, restaurants and bars. A good place to hang out on the weekend is ‘Layback’, this is a food court with many different cuisines and great craft beer. Cafe Cultura is also a great spot for coffee and smoothies, most people in this place are speaking English. As Florianopolis is an affluent place, many people here speak very good English.
There are so many things to do in Floripa so I would definitely recommend a week here (if you have the time), or 4 nights at least! From kayaking, surfing, hiking, sandboarding, paragliding, snorkelling it is a haven for outdoor activities. One of the best hikes to do on the island is to ‘Lagoina de Leste’. It is about a 3 hour hike and starts and finishes at different points. I would recommend starting it the long way from Matedeiro beach (also well worth another visit to relax on the beach) and ending it at Pantano do Sul.
To arrive at the start of the hike, you can easily get an uber for super cheap to Armacao (about 30 minutes from Lagoa Conceicao). Then you must do a small hike to the starting point which is at the end of Matadeiro beach, you literally have to walk across the beach to find the start of the trail.
From there the hike begins! Expect a variety of terrain, from jungle to cliff edge literally. The path is a little less well trodden as you reach the end of hike, and there is a little bit of rock scrambling towards the end. But it really is a beautiful hike, the views of the sea are magnificent just be careful of your step!
After roughly 2 hours you reach Lagoina de Leste, a beach on the left and a lagoon on the right side. If you are feeling super adventurous then you can also camp by the lagoon. This was something I did when I revisited Lagoina and discovered a community of ‘nativos’. People that are camping and living there for a long time. These people were so kind and made me feel so welcome.
The way back takes you to ‘Pantano do Sul’ and takes 40 minutes walking uphill and then downhill. Another one of my favourite hikes in Floripa is the ‘Morro do Lampiao’ hike and involves a climb to the rock viewpoint. It takes about 40 minutes to get to the top and then 30 minutes to get down. This hike has a story behind it, it was where the famous French author and pilot Antoine Saint Exupery (he wrote the Little Prince) used to direct the planes. Florianopolis loved this guy so much that they called the main road in Campeche after him (Pequeno Principe).
A good time to go to this hike is around 5:30/6 where you can catch the sunset over the island. Just make sure you bring a torch for the way back as it is a little dark and slippery so make sure you have grip on your shoes!
You can easily access the start of the hike from Campeche, which is a residential village on the island. Campeche is where I stayed for my second workaway experience. This workaway involved me staying with a Father and his son and helping out with the garden, picking lemons and planting flower beds. I really really enjoyed my time here and was very sad when it was cut short due to coronavirus (more on that later).
A third recommended hike is to Saquinho, this hike is only 20 minutes and takes you to a beautiful secluded beach you can also camp here.
In terms of beaches, you are really spoilt for choice in Florianopolis. The nearest beach to Lagoa Conceicao is Praia Mole and Galheta. There are some hostels closer to the beaches if you prefer that such as Sunset Backpackers and Selina. Praia Mole is about a 45 minute walk from the hostel and you can always catch an uber or bus back.
Another beach a little further away past the sand dunes is Joaquina beach which is very popular with surfers and generally gets very busy on the weekend. Similarly, Campeche beach is a good surf spot and quieter than Joiaquina. You can also take a trip to Campeche island which I heard has some great snorkelling spots!
Another popular spot to visit is ‘Barra da Lagoa’. This is like a small village with a busy beach. You can also visit the pools and the popular hostel ‘Barra Beach Club’ for excellent food and caiprinhas. This is also a popular hostel as it has its own beach and water sport activities. I also heard of a retreat like place called Rosemary Dream. Barra is also a very good surf spot and a good place to learn as the waves are small.
In terms of restaurants, Florianopolis has some excellent vegetarian and vegan places. One of these is called O que Comemos, a buffet style restaurant with yummy vegan options. There are also many sushi places, due to the Japanese influence.
If partying is your thing, then you’re in for a treat. There are some great bars and nightlife options in Floripa, for example Bar DeRaiz which has a hip hop night on a Thursday. The main club in Lagoa de Coneicao is called Santos, which has parties pretty much every night of the week. Brazilians love live music so you will definitely be able to find something that you like!
There is such a great vibe in Florianopolis, the people are so friendly and happy with life. I would definitely recommend staying here for as long as you can because you will love it!